From the 16th century the history of the Norwich textile industry can be traced in greater detail. In 1544 the Company of Dornix weavers was formed, making bed-linens, board cloths and curtains. A small group of specialist weavers from Flanders were invited to work with experienced local men to make 'Norwich Satins’ and ‘Norwich Fustians’ This enterprise grew into the successful ‘Russell Company’ founded in 1554.

However textile fortunes dipped in the 1560s. The City authorities tried a radical solution. They issued an invitation to ‘30 Douchemen of the lowe countrys of Flanders’ to come to Norwich with their families and servants, for the purpose of restoring the fortunes of the city by introducing new cloth varieties. These featured a varied range of light fabrics, many made from mixed yarns. They included bayes, arras, saies, tapestry, mockadoes, stamens and carsey. Versions of some of these cloths were already made in the city so the extent to which the ‘Strangers’ were responsible for the innovations has been hotly debated. Certainly they stimulated the development of what is generally known as the ‘New Draperies’ in the city. Production increased substantially and so did the City’s reputation for its textiles.

Despite episodes of friction with the native community and strict control of their products and lives, the Stranger communities grew and flourished. By the end of the century the colourful Walloon fabrics, known collectively as ‘the Caugeantry’ were evolving into the worsted mixtures or ‘Norwich Stuffs’ of the 17th century.

A lesser-known Turkey-work industry also existed, producing table carpets, cushions and upholstery in knotted pile technique. Turkey-work stools, chairs and carpets feature heavily in surviving inventories of the period.